Brie, that creamy, decadent cheese, is a staple on cheese boards across the United States. You can find countless varieties, from the mild and buttery to the tangy and earthy. But there’s one notable exception: Brie de Melun. This king of Brie remains stubbornly absent from American cheese shops. Why is that? The answer is a complex interplay of regulations, tradition, and the unique characteristics of this revered French cheese.
The Unpasteurized Milk Hurdle
The primary reason Brie de Melun is unavailable in the US boils down to regulations surrounding unpasteurized milk cheeses. The United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has strict rules about the sale and import of cheeses made with raw milk, often referred to as unpasteurized milk.
The 60-Day Rule
The FDA mandates that any cheese made with unpasteurized milk must be aged for at least 60 days at a temperature of 35°F (1.7°C) or higher before being sold in the United States. This aging process is believed to significantly reduce the levels of harmful bacteria that could potentially be present in raw milk. This regulation aims to protect public health and prevent foodborne illnesses.
Brie de Melun presents a problem because it doesn’t always meet this 60-day aging requirement while still maintaining its optimal texture and flavor. The cheese is often at its peak ripeness well before 60 days, developing its characteristic pungent aroma, creamy interior, and complex flavors. Extending the aging period to comply with US regulations would significantly alter the cheese’s profile, rendering it something entirely different from the authentic Brie de Melun.
Pasteurization: A Matter of Taste and Tradition
While pasteurization, the process of heating milk to kill harmful bacteria, is a common practice, it’s considered a sacrilege by many traditional cheesemakers, especially those producing Brie de Melun. They argue that pasteurization destroys beneficial bacteria and enzymes that contribute to the cheese’s unique flavor complexity and texture.
Brie de Melun, with its rich history and deeply ingrained traditions, is almost exclusively made with raw milk. Cheesemakers believe that using raw milk is essential to capturing the terroir, the unique characteristics of the region’s milk, soil, and climate, which contribute to the cheese’s distinctive flavor profile. Pasteurized milk, they contend, would result in a blander, less complex, and ultimately inferior product.
The Size and Scale of Production
Another factor hindering the availability of Brie de Melun in the US is the small-scale, artisanal nature of its production. Unlike many commercially produced cheeses, Brie de Melun is typically made in small batches by independent farmers and cheesemakers in the Seine-et-Marne region of France.
Limited Production Volumes
The production volume of Brie de Melun is significantly lower than that of other types of brie. This is due to several factors, including the reliance on traditional methods, the use of raw milk, and the limited number of producers dedicated to preserving the cheese’s authenticity. This limited supply makes it challenging to meet the demand for export, especially to a large market like the United States.
Cost Considerations
The labor-intensive production process, the use of high-quality raw milk, and the small-scale nature of production all contribute to the relatively high cost of Brie de Melun. Importing this cheese into the US would further increase its price due to transportation costs, import duties, and distributor markups. This high price point might make it less competitive compared to other brie varieties already available in the American market.
The “Terroir” Factor and Authenticity
Brie de Melun is inextricably linked to its terroir, the specific environmental conditions and local traditions that shape its unique character. This connection makes it difficult, if not impossible, to replicate the authentic Brie de Melun experience outside of its designated production area.
Geographic Indication and Protection
While not a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) cheese like some European cheeses, Brie de Melun is recognized as a traditional product intrinsically linked to its geographic origin. The characteristics of the milk, the specific techniques used by cheesemakers, and the aging environment all contribute to its distinctive flavor and texture. Attempting to produce Brie de Melun outside of this specific region would likely result in a cheese that lacks the authentic qualities that make it so highly prized.
Preserving Traditional Methods
Brie de Melun cheesemakers are committed to preserving the traditional methods passed down through generations. These methods include using specific types of rennet, carefully controlling the temperature and humidity during aging, and hand-ladling the curds into molds. These traditional practices are essential to achieving the cheese’s characteristic texture and flavor profile. Simply replicating the recipe without adhering to these traditional methods would not result in an authentic Brie de Melun.
Navigating US Import Regulations
Even if a Brie de Melun producer were willing to pasteurize the milk or age the cheese for 60 days, navigating the complex US import regulations can be a daunting and expensive process. These regulations are designed to ensure the safety and quality of imported food products.
Meeting Stringent Standards
Importing cheese into the US requires meeting stringent standards for food safety, labeling, and packaging. Importers must obtain the necessary permits and licenses, comply with FDA regulations, and ensure that their products meet US standards for hygiene and sanitation. This can involve significant investments in infrastructure, testing, and documentation.
The Cost of Compliance
The cost of complying with US import regulations can be prohibitive for small-scale producers of Brie de Melun. The expense of obtaining the necessary certifications, conducting laboratory testing, and ensuring proper labeling can make it financially unviable to export the cheese to the United States. This cost barrier further limits the availability of Brie de Melun in the US market.
Looking for Alternatives: A Brie-Lover’s Guide
While you might not be able to find authentic Brie de Melun in the US, there are other excellent brie varieties and cheeses that offer similar flavor profiles and textures. Exploring these alternatives can satisfy your cravings for creamy, decadent cheese.
Brie de Meaux: A Close Cousin
Brie de Meaux, another renowned French brie, is considered Brie de Melun’s close cousin. While also traditionally made with raw milk, some producers may offer pasteurized versions that could be available in the US. It shares a similar rich, earthy flavor and creamy texture, although it tends to be slightly milder than Brie de Melun.
Other French Bries
Several other French brie varieties, such as Coulommiers, can offer a comparable experience. Look for cheeses with a pronounced mushroomy aroma and a creamy, slightly runny interior. These cheeses may not be exactly the same as Brie de Melun, but they can provide a satisfying alternative.
Domestic Brie Options
Many American cheesemakers are producing excellent brie-style cheeses. These cheeses are often made with pasteurized milk, but some producers are experimenting with raw milk and aging techniques to create more complex and flavorful cheeses. Look for domestic bries that are aged longer and have a more pronounced flavor.
The Hope for the Future
While Brie de Melun remains elusive in the US, there’s always hope that regulations or production methods may change in the future, allowing this exceptional cheese to reach American shores.
Advocacy for Raw Milk Cheeses
Organizations and individuals are actively advocating for changes to US regulations regarding raw milk cheeses. They argue that the current regulations are overly restrictive and that consumers should have the right to choose authentic, traditionally made cheeses. If these advocacy efforts are successful, it could pave the way for Brie de Melun to be legally imported into the US.
Technological Advancements
Advancements in cheesemaking technology may also provide solutions for safely producing and transporting Brie de Melun. New pasteurization methods that preserve more of the milk’s natural flavor, or innovative packaging techniques that extend the shelf life of raw milk cheeses, could potentially overcome the current obstacles to importing Brie de Melun into the US.
For now, the quest for authentic Brie de Melun in the United States remains a cheese lover’s dream. But by understanding the reasons behind its absence and exploring available alternatives, you can still enjoy the delicious world of creamy, flavorful cheeses. The hope remains that one day, this king of Brie will finally make its grand entrance onto American cheese boards.
What is Brie de Melun and what makes it special?
Brie de Melun is a French cheese, one of the two main types of Brie (the other being Brie de Meaux). It’s known as the “grandfather of Brie” because it’s believed to be the original style, dating back much further than Brie de Meaux. It boasts a more intense and earthy flavor profile, often described as mushroomy, farmy, and sometimes even slightly ammonia-tinged, particularly as it ages.
The unique flavor of Brie de Melun is attributed to a number of factors, including the specific milk used, the traditional production methods, and the longer aging process. The cheese undergoes a slower, more natural maturation, allowing complex flavors to develop over time. It also differs from Brie de Meaux in size and shape, being generally smaller and flatter.
Why is Brie de Melun so difficult to find in the United States?
The primary reason for the scarcity of Brie de Melun in the US stems from strict regulations regarding the importation of unpasteurized (raw milk) cheeses. US law prohibits the sale of cheeses made with raw milk if they haven’t been aged for at least 60 days. While some Brie de Melun meets this requirement, production methods often prioritize flavor over extended aging.
Furthermore, even if a batch technically meets the aging requirement, the process of importing specialty cheeses can be complex and costly. Producers must navigate intricate import procedures, and the delicate nature of Brie de Melun, its relatively short shelf life, and its intense aroma can make it a less appealing option for importers compared to other, more shelf-stable cheeses.
Are there any pasteurized versions of Brie de Melun available in the US?
While authentic Brie de Melun is traditionally made with raw milk, some producers may offer pasteurized versions to cater to international markets. However, these are often difficult to find and may not replicate the exact characteristics of the raw milk version. The pasteurization process can significantly alter the flavor profile and texture of the cheese.
Keep in mind that even if you find a cheese labeled “Brie de Melun” in the US, it’s crucial to check the ingredients and production details. Look for information indicating whether it’s made with raw or pasteurized milk. If the label doesn’t specify, it’s likely a generic Brie-style cheese rather than true Brie de Melun.
What are the regulations surrounding raw milk cheese importation to the US?
The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) sets the regulations for importing raw milk cheeses. The core rule mandates that all cheeses made with unpasteurized milk must be aged for a minimum of 60 days at a temperature of no less than 35°F (1.7°C) before being sold in the US. This aging period is intended to reduce the presence of harmful bacteria.
These regulations aim to balance the enjoyment of traditional cheeses with public health concerns. Importers must demonstrate that their products comply with these requirements, which involves detailed documentation and potentially testing. The burden of proving compliance can be significant, especially for small-scale producers of cheeses like Brie de Melun.
What are some alternative cheeses that offer a similar flavor profile to Brie de Melun?
If you’re seeking a cheese with a similar intense and earthy flavor profile, consider exploring other French cheeses made with raw milk. Some options include certain types of Camembert, particularly those produced using traditional methods. Look for labels indicating “au lait cru” (made with raw milk).
Other possibilities include some aged goat cheeses or other bloomy rind cheeses. However, remember that no substitute will perfectly replicate the unique nuances of Brie de Melun. Searching for artisanal cheese shops may help you find cheeses with similar flavor profiles.
Could local cheesemakers in the US produce a cheese similar to Brie de Melun?
It is indeed possible for American cheesemakers to create Brie-style cheeses that resemble Brie de Melun in flavor and texture. Many artisanal cheesemakers are experimenting with traditional cheesemaking techniques, including using raw milk (where permitted by state regulations) and employing natural rinds.
However, replicating the exact terroir (the combination of environmental factors that influence the cheese) of the Melun region in France is extremely difficult. Factors like the specific breed of cows, the local flora, and the traditional aging caves contribute to the unique character of Brie de Melun. Despite these challenges, some American cheesemakers are producing excellent Brie-style cheeses with complex and interesting flavors.
What are some tips for locating Brie de Melun if I’m determined to find it?
Your best bet is to check with specialty cheese shops that specialize in importing European cheeses. Call ahead to inquire about availability, as supplies can be sporadic and limited. Be prepared to pay a premium price due to the import costs and rarity of the cheese.
Another option is to explore online cheese retailers that import directly from Europe. Verify the origin and ingredients carefully to ensure you’re getting authentic Brie de Melun. Check reviews and ratings of the retailer to ensure their reliability. Remember to consider shipping costs and delivery times, as this is a perishable item.