The world of hair dye is a vibrant playground of self-expression, but mixing colors, especially bleach and purple, can be a risky game. You might be thinking of lightening your purple locks, perhaps to try a new shade or return to your natural color. But before you reach for the bleach, it’s crucial to understand what happens when you bleach over purple hair. This article explores the chemistry involved, the potential outcomes, and how to minimize damage.
Understanding Hair Color and Bleach
To grasp what happens when bleach meets purple hair, it’s important to understand how hair dye and bleach work independently.
The Science of Hair Dye
Hair dye, especially permanent or semi-permanent colors like purple, works by depositing pigment into the hair shaft. The process usually involves opening the hair cuticle – the outermost layer of the hair – allowing the dye molecules to penetrate. Permanent dyes often use ammonia to open the cuticle and peroxide to develop the color. The dye molecules then react with the hair’s natural pigments, changing its color. Purple dyes contain blue and red pigments to achieve their vibrant hue.
How Bleach Lightens Hair
Bleach, on the other hand, is a chemical oxidizing agent that breaks down the natural melanin in your hair, which is responsible for its color. The active ingredient in most hair bleach is hydrogen peroxide, often mixed with an alkaline booster like ammonia. This mixture penetrates the hair shaft and oxidizes the melanin, lightening the hair. The longer the bleach is left on, and the higher the volume of peroxide used, the lighter the hair becomes. The process often involves multiple stages, from dark brown to red, orange, yellow, and eventually to a pale yellow or blonde.
The Bleach-Over-Purple Reaction: A Chemical Cocktail
When you bleach over purple hair, you’re essentially mixing two chemical processes. The bleach attempts to remove both the artificial purple pigment and the hair’s natural melanin. This interaction can lead to a variety of unpredictable outcomes.
Pigment Removal and Underlying Tones
Bleach will primarily target the purple pigment first. However, the order in which the color fades might not be as expected. Purple dye consists of blue and red pigments, which can react differently to the bleaching process. Often, the blue pigment is more resistant to bleaching than the red. This means that as the purple fades, it might transition through shades of pink, then potentially a stubborn blue or green. These lingering pigments are essential to consider when planning your next color application.
The Risk of Brassiness
As the bleach lifts the purple, it also exposes the underlying warm tones in your hair. Natural hair contains red and orange pigments, and these will become more visible as the darker colors are stripped away. Bleaching over purple can exacerbate this, leading to unwanted brassiness – a combination of yellow and orange tones. This is especially common if your hair was originally dark, as more underlying pigment needs to be lifted to achieve a lighter shade. Toner is often necessary after bleaching to neutralize these brassy tones.
Potential for Muddy or Uneven Color
One of the biggest risks of bleaching over purple hair is ending up with a muddy or uneven color. This happens when the bleach doesn’t lift the color evenly, leaving some areas lighter than others. Patches of purple, pink, or blue can remain, creating a blotchy appearance. This is especially likely if the purple dye was applied unevenly in the first place, or if your hair has varying levels of porosity.
Damage Control: Minimizing the Risks
Bleaching is inherently damaging to the hair. When combined with existing dye, the risks are amplified. Fortunately, there are steps you can take to minimize damage and increase your chances of a successful color transformation.
Assess Hair Health and Porosity
Before even considering bleach, assess the overall health of your hair. Is it dry, brittle, or prone to breakage? Bleach can worsen these conditions. Perform a strand test to evaluate your hair’s porosity – its ability to absorb moisture. Highly porous hair absorbs bleach quickly but is also more susceptible to damage. Damaged or highly porous hair might not be able to withstand the bleaching process without significant breakage. Consider deep conditioning treatments for several weeks before bleaching to improve your hair’s strength and moisture levels.
Strand Test is Crucial
A strand test is non-negotiable when bleaching over purple hair. Take a small, inconspicuous section of your hair – preferably from underneath – and apply the bleach mixture. This will allow you to see how your hair reacts to the bleach, how quickly the purple fades, and what underlying tones are revealed. The strand test will also help you determine the appropriate bleach volume and processing time.
Choose the Right Bleach Volume
The volume of the developer in your bleach kit determines its lifting power. Higher volumes lift faster but are also more damaging. For previously dyed hair, a lower volume developer (10 or 20 volume) is generally recommended to minimize damage. Higher volumes (30 or 40 volume) should only be used on virgin hair or by experienced professionals. A lower volume requires patience, potentially needing multiple sessions, but it is gentler on the hair.
The Importance of Toning
After bleaching, toning is essential to neutralize any unwanted brassy or remaining purple tones. A toner is a demi-permanent dye that deposits color to correct and refine the hair’s shade. Blue or purple toners can counteract yellow and orange tones, while pink toners can neutralize green hues. Choose a toner that complements your desired end result.
Post-Bleach Care: Hydration and Repair
Bleaching strips the hair of its natural oils and proteins, leaving it dry and brittle. Intense hydration is key after bleaching. Use deep conditioning masks, leave-in conditioners, and hair oils to replenish moisture and restore elasticity. Look for products containing ingredients like keratin, argan oil, and hyaluronic acid. Avoid heat styling as much as possible to prevent further damage.
Navigating Different Shades of Purple
The specific shade of purple you’re starting with will influence the bleaching outcome. Lighter purples are generally easier to remove than darker, more heavily pigmented purples.
Light Lavender or Pastel Purple
Lighter shades of purple, like lavender or pastel purple, typically fade more easily and are less likely to leave behind stubborn blue or green tones. Bleaching these shades might only require a low-volume developer and a shorter processing time. The risk of brassiness is still present, so toning is still recommended.
Vibrant, Deep Purple
Vibrant or deep purples, such as eggplant or plum, are more challenging to remove due to their higher pigment concentration. These shades often require multiple bleaching sessions or a stronger developer. Be prepared for the possibility of lingering blue or green tones. Corrective toning might be necessary to achieve a neutral base for your next color.
Purple with Red Undertones
Purples with red undertones might fade to pink or even reddish-orange during the bleaching process. The red pigment can be particularly stubborn to remove. Consider using a color remover before bleaching to lift as much of the red pigment as possible.
Purple with Blue Undertones
Purples with blue undertones are known for their tendency to fade to blue or green. Blue pigment is incredibly persistent and can be difficult to completely remove. A color remover can help, but multiple bleaching sessions or specialized color correction techniques might be needed to achieve a completely clean base.
Professional Help: When to Call in the Experts
Bleaching over purple hair can be unpredictable, and the potential for damage is high. If you’re unsure about any step of the process, or if your hair is already damaged, it’s best to consult a professional hairstylist.
Color Correction Expertise
Professional stylists have the knowledge and experience to assess your hair’s condition, formulate a personalized bleaching plan, and correct any unwanted tones or damage. They can also use professional-grade products and techniques that are not available to the general public.
Avoiding Costly Mistakes
While DIY hair color can be tempting, fixing a botched bleaching job can be more expensive and time-consuming than getting it done right the first time. A stylist can help you avoid costly mistakes and achieve your desired color while minimizing damage.
Alternative Methods to Bleach
If you’re concerned about the potential damage from bleach, there are alternative methods to consider for removing purple hair dye.
Color Removers
Color removers are designed to lift artificial hair color without the harsh effects of bleach. They work by shrinking the dye molecules, allowing them to be washed out of the hair. Color removers are generally less damaging than bleach, but they might not be as effective at removing stubborn pigments.
Vitamin C Treatment
A vitamin C treatment is a gentle and natural way to fade hair dye. Crush vitamin C tablets and mix them with a clarifying shampoo. Apply the mixture to your hair and let it sit for 30-60 minutes before rinsing. This method is best for fading semi-permanent dyes and might not be effective on permanent colors.
Clarifying Shampoos
Clarifying shampoos are designed to remove buildup and impurities from the hair. They can also help to fade hair dye over time. Use a clarifying shampoo once or twice a week, followed by a deep conditioning treatment to prevent dryness.
Long-Term Hair Care After Bleaching
Regardless of how carefully you bleach your hair, it will likely experience some degree of damage. Long-term hair care is essential to maintain its health and prevent further breakage.
Regular Deep Conditioning
Deep conditioning treatments should be a regular part of your hair care routine. Use a deep conditioner once a week to replenish moisture and strengthen the hair shaft.
Protein Treatments
Protein treatments help to rebuild the protein structure of the hair, making it stronger and more resilient. Use a protein treatment every few weeks, but be careful not to overuse them, as too much protein can make the hair brittle.
Limit Heat Styling
Heat styling can cause further damage to bleached hair. Minimize the use of heat styling tools like hair dryers, straighteners, and curling irons. When you do use heat, always use a heat protectant spray.
Regular Trims
Regular trims are essential to remove split ends and prevent them from traveling up the hair shaft. Trim your hair every 6-8 weeks to keep it healthy and strong.
Bleaching over purple hair is a complex process with potentially unpredictable results. Understanding the chemistry involved, assessing your hair’s health, and taking precautions to minimize damage are crucial for achieving your desired color transformation. If you’re unsure about any step of the process, or if your hair is already damaged, it’s always best to consult a professional hairstylist. By following these guidelines, you can navigate the colorful world of hair dye with confidence and achieve beautiful, healthy results.
What’s the biggest risk when bleaching over purple hair?
The biggest risk is uneven lightening and potentially ending up with unwanted tones, like pink or blue. Bleach lifts the color, but it doesn’t erase it completely, especially if the purple was heavily pigmented or applied multiple times. The underlying tones can react differently to the bleach, leading to a patchy or inconsistent result.
Furthermore, bleaching already dyed hair, especially purple which often requires pre-lightening, increases the risk of damage. The hair shaft becomes more porous and susceptible to breakage. This can lead to dry, brittle strands, split ends, and an overall unhealthy appearance, ultimately hindering your desired hair transformation.
Will the purple hair dye affect how the bleach lifts?
Yes, the purple hair dye definitely affects how the bleach lifts. The bleach needs to break down not only the natural pigment of your hair, but also the artificial pigments from the purple dye. Some purple dyes are more resistant than others, and the type of dye (direct dye versus permanent) also plays a crucial role in how easily it’s removed.
Moreover, the condition of your hair prior to bleaching and the porosity will significantly impact the lifting process. Porous hair tends to grab onto color more easily, making it harder to remove and potentially leading to uneven absorption of the bleach. This can result in some areas lifting faster than others, leaving you with a multicolored mess instead of a uniform base.
What color should I expect my hair to turn after bleaching purple hair?
The color you can expect after bleaching purple hair is quite unpredictable and depends heavily on the specific purple dye used and your hair’s starting color. Generally, you’ll likely end up with some variation of pink, blue, or a muddy lavender tone. The intensity of these undertones depends on how well the purple dye lifts and how light you need to go.
If the purple was heavily pigmented and difficult to remove, you may need multiple bleaching sessions to achieve a lighter base. Each session will gradually lighten the remaining pigment, but also increases the risk of damage. It’s important to assess the color after each session and adjust your strategy accordingly to minimize harm and avoid unwanted tones.
How can I minimize damage when bleaching over purple hair?
Minimizing damage starts with ensuring your hair is in the best possible condition before you even think about bleach. Deep conditioning treatments, protein masks, and avoiding heat styling for several weeks leading up to the bleaching process can strengthen the hair shaft and improve its resilience. Healthy hair handles bleach much better than damaged hair.
During the bleaching process itself, use a low-volume developer and monitor your hair closely. Don’t leave the bleach on longer than necessary, and consider using a bond-building additive like Olaplex or similar products to help protect the hair’s internal structure. After bleaching, prioritize moisturizing and repairing your hair with gentle shampoos and hydrating masks.
Is it better to use a color remover before bleaching purple hair?
Yes, using a color remover before bleaching is generally recommended when dealing with purple hair, especially if it’s a vibrant or heavily saturated color. Color removers are designed to gently lift artificial dye molecules from the hair without causing as much damage as bleach. This can significantly reduce the amount of bleach needed and prevent further stress on your hair.
However, it’s important to choose a color remover that’s specifically formulated for direct dyes, if that’s what you used. Follow the instructions carefully and perform a strand test first to see how your hair reacts. Even with a color remover, you may still need to bleach to achieve your desired lightness, but the process will be less harsh and more controlled.
Can I tone my hair after bleaching purple to neutralize unwanted tones?
Absolutely, toning is a crucial step after bleaching purple hair to neutralize any remaining unwanted tones like yellow, orange, pink, or blue. Toner is a demi-permanent dye that deposits color onto the hair, effectively canceling out these brassy or pastel shades and creating a more neutral or desired base color. This is particularly helpful if you’re aiming for blonde or another light shade.
Choosing the right toner depends on the specific undertones you’re trying to correct. For example, if you have yellow tones, a purple-based toner will help neutralize them. If you have orange tones, a blue-based toner is more appropriate. It’s essential to research and select a toner that complements your hair’s current color and aligns with your desired end result. Again, strand test is highly recommended.
When should I seek professional help instead of bleaching over purple hair myself?
You should strongly consider seeking professional help if you’ve previously damaged your hair, if you’re attempting a significant color change (e.g., going from dark purple to platinum blonde), or if you’re unsure about the process. A professional stylist has the experience and knowledge to assess your hair’s condition, choose the right products, and apply them safely to minimize damage and achieve your desired results.
Trying to correct a botched DIY bleaching job can be even more challenging and damaging. A professional can also formulate a plan to gradually lighten your hair over several sessions, if necessary, to maintain its health and integrity. While it might be more expensive, professional help is often the safest and most effective way to achieve a beautiful and healthy hair transformation.