The world of hair coloring can seem like a complex chemical equation, filled with numbers, percentages, and mysterious ingredients. Among these, “Volume 20 developer” stands out as a critical component. But what exactly is Volume 20 developer, and what does it do? More importantly, what does a developer, in general, do? This article aims to demystify this crucial element of hair coloring, exploring its function, strengths, limitations, and how it compares to other developer volumes.
Understanding the Role of Hair Color Developer
At its core, hair color developer is an oxidizing agent, most commonly hydrogen peroxide (H2O2). It’s the catalyst that unlocks the magic of permanent and demi-permanent hair color. Without it, the color molecules would simply sit on the surface of the hair, washing away with the next shampoo. The developer’s primary job is to open the hair cuticle, allowing the dye molecules to penetrate the hair shaft.
Think of the hair cuticle as a tightly sealed gate protecting the inner layers of your hair. The developer acts like a key, gently lifting the scales of the cuticle to create space for the color to enter. This process is crucial for the color to permanently bind to the hair’s protein structure.
Another critical function of the developer is to lighten the natural pigment of the hair. This is achieved through oxidation, a chemical reaction that breaks down the melanin responsible for hair color. The higher the volume of the developer, the more lightening power it possesses. This lightening effect is essential for achieving lighter shades or covering gray hair effectively.
Finally, the developer helps to develop the color molecules themselves. Hair dye often consists of colorless precursors that, when mixed with the developer, undergo a chemical reaction that forms the actual pigment we see. This development process is essential for creating the vibrant and long-lasting color that we desire.
Volume 20: The Workhorse of Hair Coloring
Volume numbers refer to the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in the developer. In simple terms, the volume number indicates how much oxygen the developer releases. Volume 20 developer contains 6% hydrogen peroxide. This is a medium-strength developer, making it a versatile choice for a wide range of hair coloring applications.
Lifting Power and Color Deposit
Volume 20 developer typically provides 1-2 levels of lift. This means it can lighten the natural hair color by one or two shades. This makes it suitable for achieving subtle color changes, adding highlights, or covering gray hair when a slight lightening effect is desired.
More importantly, Volume 20 is excellent for depositing color. It opens the cuticle sufficiently for the dye molecules to penetrate deeply, resulting in rich, vibrant, and long-lasting color. This makes it an ideal choice for achieving true-to-tone results, especially when going darker or maintaining the existing hair color level.
Ideal Scenarios for Volume 20
So, when should you reach for Volume 20? Here are a few common scenarios:
- Covering Gray Hair: Volume 20 is often the go-to choice for covering gray hair. It provides enough lift to blend the gray strands with the rest of the hair while effectively depositing the dye molecules for complete coverage.
- Going Darker: When coloring hair darker, lifting is not the primary goal. Instead, the focus is on depositing the color evenly and effectively. Volume 20 is perfect for this, ensuring a rich and long-lasting dark color.
- Toning Highlights or Balayage: After bleaching highlights or balayage, Volume 20 can be used with a toner to neutralize unwanted brassiness and achieve the desired shade.
- Root Touch-Ups: Maintaining the base color is crucial for a polished look. Volume 20 is gentle enough for regular root touch-ups, preventing excessive damage to the hair.
- Demi-Permanent Color: While technically demi-permanent colors often use lower volume developers, Volume 20 can sometimes be used with certain demi-permanent formulations for enhanced color vibrancy and longevity, always following manufacturer instructions.
Comparing Volume 20 to Other Developers
Understanding the differences between various developer volumes is crucial for achieving the desired results and minimizing hair damage. Here’s how Volume 20 stacks up against other common options:
Volume 10 Developer
Volume 10 developer (3% hydrogen peroxide) is the gentlest option, providing minimal lift. It’s primarily used for depositing color or toning, with virtually no lightening effect. Volume 10 is ideal for delicate hair or when only a slight color change is desired.
Volume 30 Developer
Volume 30 developer (9% hydrogen peroxide) offers more lifting power than Volume 20, typically providing 2-3 levels of lift. It’s a good choice for achieving more noticeable color changes or covering resistant gray hair. However, it’s also more damaging to the hair and requires careful monitoring.
Volume 40 Developer
Volume 40 developer (12% hydrogen peroxide) is the strongest option, providing the most significant lift (3-4 levels). It’s typically used for achieving very light blonde shades or drastic color changes. Due to its high concentration of hydrogen peroxide, Volume 40 can cause significant damage and should only be used by experienced professionals.
| Developer Volume | Hydrogen Peroxide (%) | Lifting Power (Levels) | Common Use Cases |
|---|---|---|---|
| Volume 10 | 3% | 0-1 | Depositing color, toning, delicate hair |
| Volume 20 | 6% | 1-2 | Covering gray hair, going darker, root touch-ups |
| Volume 30 | 9% | 2-3 | Noticeable color changes, resistant gray hair |
| Volume 40 | 12% | 3-4 | Very light blonde shades, drastic color changes (professional use only) |
Potential Risks and Precautions
While Volume 20 developer is generally considered safe for home use, it’s important to be aware of the potential risks and take necessary precautions:
- Skin Irritation: Hydrogen peroxide can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions in some individuals. It’s crucial to perform a patch test before applying the developer to the entire head.
- Hair Damage: Overprocessing with any developer can lead to dry, brittle, and damaged hair. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and avoid leaving the developer on for longer than recommended.
- Scalp Sensitivity: The scalp can become sensitive during the coloring process. Avoid scratching or irritating the scalp, and rinse thoroughly after processing.
- Eye Contact: Hydrogen peroxide can cause serious eye damage. Wear gloves and avoid contact with the eyes. If contact occurs, rinse immediately with plenty of water and seek medical attention.
Tips for Safe and Effective Use of Volume 20 Developer
To ensure a safe and successful hair coloring experience with Volume 20 developer, follow these tips:
- Always perform a strand test: This allows you to assess the color result and identify any potential sensitivities before applying the dye to your entire head.
- Follow the manufacturer’s instructions: Each hair dye product is formulated differently, so it’s essential to adhere to the specific instructions provided.
- Use the correct ratio of developer to dye: Using the wrong ratio can affect the color result and potentially damage the hair.
- Apply the dye evenly: Ensure that the hair is saturated with the dye mixture for consistent color results.
- Monitor the processing time: Avoid leaving the dye on for longer than recommended, as this can lead to overprocessing and damage.
- Rinse thoroughly: Rinse the hair thoroughly with cool water until the water runs clear.
- Use a deep conditioner: After coloring, apply a deep conditioner to replenish moisture and strengthen the hair.
- Protect your hair from heat: Heat styling can further damage colored hair. Use a heat protectant spray before using styling tools.
Beyond the Basics: Specialized Volume 20 Developers
While most developers are simply hydrogen peroxide solutions, some manufacturers offer specialized formulations designed for specific purposes or hair types. These may contain additional ingredients to help protect the hair, enhance color vibrancy, or improve the application process.
Some developers may include conditioning agents to minimize damage and leave the hair feeling softer and smoother. Others may contain stabilizers to prevent the hydrogen peroxide from degrading, ensuring consistent results. Some are formulated to work best with specific hair dye brands or types.
The selection of a volume 20 developer is a very important process that should not be taken lightly. Considering specialized formulations can significantly improve the outcome of your hair coloring endeavors.
Choosing the right developer is a critical step in achieving beautiful and healthy-looking colored hair. Understanding the role of Volume 20 developer, its strengths, limitations, and how it compares to other volumes, allows you to make informed decisions and achieve your desired color results with confidence. Remember to prioritize safety, follow instructions carefully, and consult with a professional stylist if you have any concerns.
What exactly is “Volume 20” developer, and what does the “20” refer to?
Hydrogen peroxide is the active ingredient in hair developers, and “Volume 20” refers to the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in the solution. Specifically, Volume 20 developer contains 6% hydrogen peroxide by volume. This means that for every 100 milliliters of developer, there are 6 milliliters of pure hydrogen peroxide.
The “volume” designation indicates the amount of oxygen released from the hydrogen peroxide as it decomposes. A Volume 20 developer releases 20 times its volume in oxygen. This oxygen is crucial for lifting the hair’s cuticle and allowing the color molecules to penetrate the hair shaft.
How does Volume 20 developer work in the hair coloring process?
Volume 20 developer serves a dual purpose: it opens the hair cuticle and oxidizes the natural melanin in the hair. Opening the cuticle allows the artificial color pigments to enter the hair shaft and deposit the new color. The oxidation of melanin lightens the existing hair color, providing a base for the new color to take hold.
The hydrogen peroxide in Volume 20 developer triggers a chemical reaction that breaks down the natural pigment molecules. This lightening action is essential for achieving the desired color result, particularly when going lighter than your natural hair color. The strength of the developer dictates how much lightening occurs and how effectively the new color is deposited.
What hair types and coloring scenarios are best suited for using Volume 20 developer?
Volume 20 developer is generally considered a mid-strength option suitable for several hair coloring applications. It’s often recommended for covering gray hair, achieving one to two levels of lift, or depositing color without significant lightening. It’s a good choice for individuals with fine to medium hair textures, as it’s less damaging than higher-volume developers.
For individuals with dark hair who want to achieve a more dramatic color change, a higher volume developer might be needed. However, Volume 20 offers a balance between effective color processing and minimizing potential damage, making it a versatile option for many at-home and salon coloring processes. It’s essential to assess hair health and desired outcome before choosing a developer volume.
What are the potential risks or side effects of using Volume 20 developer on hair?
While Volume 20 developer is considered relatively gentle compared to higher volumes, it still carries some potential risks. It can cause dryness, damage, and breakage, especially if used improperly or on already damaged hair. Over-processing with any developer can weaken the hair structure, leading to split ends and a dull appearance.
Additionally, Volume 20 developer can cause scalp irritation or allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. It’s always recommended to perform a patch test before applying developer to the entire head to check for any adverse reactions. Using a deep conditioner or hair mask after coloring can help restore moisture and minimize damage.
How does Volume 20 developer compare to other developer volumes like 10, 30, and 40?
The numbers associated with developer volumes indicate the strength and lifting power. Volume 10 is the weakest, primarily used for depositing color or achieving minimal lift. Volume 30 provides more lift and is suitable for achieving two to three levels of lightening. Volume 40 is the strongest, offering the most lift but also the highest potential for damage.
Volume 20 sits in the middle, providing a balance between color deposit and lift. It is less damaging than Volume 30 and 40 but offers more lift than Volume 10. The choice of developer volume depends on the desired color result, hair type, and overall hair health.
What precautions should I take when using Volume 20 developer at home?
Safety is paramount when using any hair developer, including Volume 20, at home. Always wear gloves to protect your skin from chemical exposure. Mix the developer with the hair color according to the manufacturer’s instructions and apply the mixture evenly to dry, unwashed hair.
Avoid getting the developer on your scalp, as it can cause irritation. Adhere strictly to the recommended processing time and rinse thoroughly with cool water. Afterwards, use a color-safe shampoo and conditioner to help seal the cuticle and lock in the color. Never reuse leftover developer, as its effectiveness diminishes once opened.
Can Volume 20 developer be used with all types of hair dyes?
Volume 20 developer is commonly used with permanent hair dyes and some demi-permanent hair dyes. It is generally not recommended for use with semi-permanent dyes, as these dyes do not require a developer to deposit color. Always check the hair dye manufacturer’s instructions to ensure compatibility and achieve the best results.
Using the wrong developer volume with a particular hair dye can lead to ineffective coloring or damage to your hair. The instructions provided with your chosen hair dye kit will specify the appropriate developer volume for that particular product. Following those instructions is crucial for a successful and safe hair coloring experience.